Guernsey - Island hopping to Herm and Sark, car-free

Guernsey is a peaceful island in its own right, but a few nautical miles away it becomes quieter still. From St Peter Port, ferries run to its smaller neighbours Herm and Sark, two islands where daily life moves at a gentler pace.

A day trip is well worth it, and so is an overnight stay. Here are the main ideas for a journey between the islands.

The crossing

The trip is short, yet the crossing is an experience in itself. You pass Castle Cornet, see little rocks in the water and, with luck, seabirds or seals. Tides in the Channel Islands are exceptionally strong, so landing places and departure times depend heavily on the water level. Ask at the harbour for the current timetable.

Herm: shells and beaches

Herm is so small that you can walk around it in a few hours. The coastal path runs along cliffs, heathland and pale beaches. The best known is Shell Beach, where countless tiny shells lie in the sand.

• Bring a picnic, because the island is very unspoilt.
• The sheltered coves are good for a swim if the weather plays along.
• On the way back it is worth a pause in the little harbour.

Sark: an island without cars

There are no cars on Sark. People walk, cycle or travel by horse-drawn carriage. A steep track leads from the harbour up to the village, and from there you explore the island. Famous are the coastal views and La Coupée, a narrow ridge that links the larger part of the island to the smaller one.

A sky full of stars

Sark is one of the first Dark Sky Islands in the world. Where there are hardly any street lamps, the Milky Way shows itself in full glory on a clear night. If you stay over, bring a torch, because the lanes are truly dark after sunset.

On Sark there are small tea and coffee rooms where you can rest after a walk. The islanders are friendly and happy to talk about life away from the mainland, which gives the visit a personal touch.

Back on Guernsey

Once back on the main island, visit the home of Victor Hugo, who lived here during his exile. Hauteville House in St Peter Port shows the poet's personal décor. Also worth seeing is the Little Chapel, a tiny chapel decorated with shells and pieces of coloured pottery.

On Guernsey itself, coastal paths run along the cliffs and through quiet bays. If you have time left, explore them before or after the trip to the neighbouring islands and experience the full variety of the Channel Islands.

Tips for island hoppers

The weather changes quickly, so dress in layers. Sturdy footwear matters because many paths are steep. Do not skimp on time, as the tides decide when you can get there and back.

Plan the excursion for a day of settled weather. Wind and fog can change the timetables, and there is hardly any shelter on the small islands. A rucksack with provisions, a rain jacket and a camera makes the best kit. On both islands the same applies: those who walk slowly see more, as birds, flowers and rock formations often reveal themselves only on a second look. The islands also suit families, as long as children are watched closely at the steep spots.

Visiting Herm and Sark lets you see Guernsey at its quietest. It is precisely the distance from everyday life that makes these small islands so special.