Gran Canaria - Mountain villages, rock giants and pine forests inland

If you only know Gran Canaria from the beaches in the south, you have missed half the island. After an hour's drive everything changes: the roads wind upwards, the air turns cooler, and instead of sand you meet ravines, pine forests and whitewashed villages.

The island is often called a "miniature continent", and not without reason. This guide shows how to spend a day in the interior without rushing.

Roque Nublo and the summit region

The Roque Nublo is a mighty monolith of rock and the symbol of the island. A well-kept trail leads up from a car park in the summit region in about an hour. At the top the view opens over mountains, clouds and, on a clear day, as far as Mount Teide on Tenerife.

Take a jacket, because it is noticeably cooler than on the coast.

Tejeda and Artenara

Tejeda is counted among the prettiest villages in Spain and sits as if cradled in a giant crater. White houses, almond trees and bakeries make it an ideal stop. Artenara is said to be the highest village on the island, and many of its homes are built into the rock.

• Try almond pastries, a speciality of the area.
• Take a look at the cave dwellings, still part of the village today.
• Allow time for viewpoints, there are plenty of them.

Teror and everyday island life

Teror is a historic little town with wooden balconies in the Canarian style and an important basilica. The old town is quiet, the square invites a coffee, and at weekends locals come for the market. Here you feel that Gran Canaria is not only a holiday spot but a living place.

On the way back it is worth stopping at one of the many viewpoints where the mountains roll in waves down to the sea. Especially late in the afternoon, when the light turns soft, the island shows its best side.

The north: green, water and coffee

The north is damper and greener than the south. Banana plantations, laurel forests and terraced fields shape the landscape. Around Agaete even coffee grows, a rarity in Europe.

The pine forest of Pajonales

In the south-west lies a wide nature reserve of Canary pines. The forest smells of resin, and trails lead through lonely ravines. It is perfect if you are looking for peace.

If you prefer to explore on foot, marked trails for every level of fitness cross the whole mountain region. A short walk often leads to a view for which you would have to hike for hours elsewhere.

Practical tips for the trip

Roads in the interior are twisty but well surfaced. Allow more time for each stretch than the map suggests, and fill up the tank before you set off. Sturdy shoes, sun protection and water belong in every rucksack, since weather and temperature can change sharply within a few kilometres.

A good rule of thumb is to have breakfast on the coast, head into the mountains in the morning and return in the late afternoon. That way you experience both sides of the island in one day. If you prefer a slower pace, stay a night in one of the mountain villages, where evenings are quiet and clear and the stars look especially bright. Children enjoy this trip too, because there is plenty to see on the way: caves, rocks, goats and viewing terraces.

Once you have seen Gran Canaria from above, you understand why the island has so many faces. A day in the mountains is a lovely change from a beach holiday and often stays in the memory longer than any sunset by the sea.