Fes - Hidden Corners, Craft Lanes and Rooftop Views of the Medina

The medina of Fes is a maze of thousands of lanes, and that is exactly what makes it special. If you let yourself drift a little, you will find small workshops, hidden courtyards and fountains behind every turn. The old city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and car-free, so you move on foot through a living piece of history.

This article takes you to quieter corners of the city, away from its best-known squares. It is for travellers who enjoy curiosity and taking their time.

Craft in the lanes

Much is still made by hand in Fes. In Place Seffarine you hear the tapping of the coppersmiths, and in other lanes weavers, carpenters and leatherworkers are at work. The famous tanneries are an impressive, if very intense, sight. From the terraces of nearby shops you look down on the round vats where leather is dyed.

• Watch the craftspeople at work, and ask politely before taking photos.
• Small shops sell leather goods, ceramics, metalwork and textiles.
• Bargaining is part of the custom, but keep it friendly and good-humoured.

Fountains, gates and courtyards

Fes is rich in fountains and splendid doors. Behind plain walls you will find courtyards with mosaics, cedar wood and carved plaster. The blue gate, Bab Boujloud, at the edge of the old city is a well-known landmark, but the loveliest details are often the small ones: a carved lintel, a fountain in the shade, a staircase that seems to lead nowhere.

The Qarawiyyin Mosque and its library were founded in the ninth century and are regarded as one of the oldest centres of learning in the world. The building itself is closed to non-Muslims, but from the gateways you can catch a glimpse of the courtyard.

Fes el-Jdid and the Mellah

A little further west lies "New Fes", Fes el-Jdid, which was founded in the Middle Ages. Here you will find wider streets, palace walls and the former Jewish quarter, the Mellah. The houses there have distinctive wooden balconies that set them apart from the rest of the old city. The walk is also rewarding because it tends to be calmer here.

Views over the rooftops

To understand the city, it helps to see it from above. On the hills above the medina lie the ruins of the Merenid Tombs, where you look out over a sea of rooftops and minarets. The light is especially beautiful in the late afternoon, when the city glows in warm yellow. The Borj Nord, an old fortress on the slope, also offers a fine overview.

Many guesthouses in the medina have roof terraces where you can drink mint tea, hear the call to prayer and let the day wind down.

Tips for your walk

• Orientation: A local guide saves time and helps you avoid getting lost, although getting lost is part of the experience.
• Clothing: Keeping shoulders and knees covered is seen as respectful.
• Shoes: The lanes are uneven and often steep, so wear sturdy footwear.
• Breaks: A glass of mint tea in a shady courtyard is the best way to recover.

If you give yourself to Fes, you will be rewarded with impressions that stay with you for a long time.