Valencia - A river park, a lagoon and the road to paella

Valencia is one of the easiest big cities in Spain to explore without a plan. It is flat, mild and full of open space, and many of its best experiences are outdoors. The city turned its old riverbed into a park, and a short ride away lies a wetland that gave the world its most famous rice dish.

This guide follows the green thread through the city, from the garden in the middle to the lagoon on the edge.

The Turia gardens

After a serious flood in the 1950s, the River Turia was diverted around the city, and the empty riverbed became a long public garden. Today it winds for several kilometres through Valencia, passing under old stone bridges. You will find:

• cycling and running paths that run almost the whole length;
• football pitches, playgrounds and quiet lawns;
• orange trees, palms and flower beds.

At one end it reaches the City of Arts and Sciences, so you can ride from the old town to the modern buildings without crossing a road.

Gulliver and other family stops

Families are well served by the park. A giant figure of Gulliver lies near the middle, and children can climb and slide all over him. Further along, a large zoo-style park focuses on African wildlife in open settings. These stops turn a walk into a full day outdoors.

The Albufera lagoon

South of the city lies the Albufera, a freshwater lagoon separated from the sea by a strip of pine-covered dunes. It is a protected natural park and an important place for birds. A short boat trip on the water, in a traditional flat-bottomed boat, is a quiet way to see the reeds and, at sunset, a sky that turns red and gold.

Rice, paella and the village of El Palmar

The lagoon is surrounded by rice fields, and this is where paella comes from. The traditional Valencian version contains chicken, rabbit, green beans and a local white bean, cooked over an open flame, and not the seafood version many visitors expect. The small village of El Palmar is known for its rice restaurants, and eating there after a boat trip is a classic outing.

The city beach and a cold drink

Back in town, the beaches of Malvarrosa are a short tram or bike ride from the centre. The wide sandy promenade is lined with cafés, and nearby you can see the fishermen's quarter with its colourful tiled houses. Finish your day with horchata, a sweet, cold drink made from tiger nuts, usually served with a soft pastry for dipping.

A good rhythm is to cycle the Turia in the morning while it is cool, take lunch in a rice village, and spend the late afternoon on the water or the sand. The city has an extensive network of bike lanes, and bikes are easy to hire, so you can cover a lot of ground without noticing the distance. Bring a hat and water in summer, because the sun is strong and shade is patchy on the beach and by the lagoon, and remember that the quiet hours after lunch are still part of local rhythm.

Valencia suits slow travellers who like to be outside. Take a bike, follow the green, and you will see the city from the angle that its residents prefer.